Cedar Forest of Alyko

The so-called cedar forest of Alyko is a protected stretch of dunes on the south-west coast of Naxos, covered with old juniper trees shaped by the wind. Paths wander between the trees and down to a string of small sandy coves with very clear water, so a visit here is as much a swim as a walk.

On the headland stands the concrete shell of a hotel abandoned decades ago, its walls now covered in street art; it is part of the attraction, but stay out of the unsafe upper floors. The junipers and dunes are fragile, so keep to existing paths and do not camp or light fires. There is no shade on the beaches themselves and no facilities in the forest: bring water, and arrive early in August, when the parking area fills.