Naxos

ΑAn island that feeds itself

Naxos is big enough to have a real interior and a working economy that does not depend entirely on August. Potatoes, cheese, citrus and livestock come from its valleys; Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades, keeps the centre green by local standards. The result is an island that feels lived-in rather than staged. The crowd is broad: Greek families, Northern European couples, windsurfers, hikers, and a growing number of travellers who tried Paros or Santorini first and wanted more space.

ΒWhere to stay

Chora (Naxos Town) is the port and the obvious base without a car: ferries, buses and the old town in one place. The Grotta district to the north is quieter; Hotel Grotta is one of the best-reviewed addresses in town. The town beach of Agios Georgios is walkable from the centre.

Agios Prokopios and Agia Anna, a short bus ride south, are for beach holidays with tavernas underfoot. Plaka further down is quieter and sandier. Apeiranthos, Chalki and Filoti in the hills suit those with a car who prefer evenings in a village square to a sea view. Apollonas in the far north is remote and very quiet outside Greek holiday weeks.

ΓTemples, kouroi and Venetian towers

Start with the Portara, the marble doorway of an unfinished Temple of Apollo on its islet by the harbour; go at sunset, and expect company. Above the port, the Venetian Kastro recalls the Duchy of the Archipelago founded here in the 13th century. Inland, the restored Temple of Demeter near Sangri is quietly impressive, and the unfinished colossal Kouros of Apollonas still lies where the sculptors abandoned it. Nearby at Melanes, the Kouros of Flerio sits in a garden. Byzantine Naxos is best seen at Panagia Drosiani and around Chalki, while Apeiranthos is the marble-paved village everyone photographs.

ΔBeaches, coast by coast

The west coast south of Chora is one long run of sand with shallow water: Agios Prokopios, Agia Anna, Plaka, Mikri Vigla (kitesurfers) and Kastraki. Further south, the Cedar Forest of Alyko shelters dunes and small coves. The north and east coasts take the meltemi head-on: pebbly Lionas and remote Psili Ammos are beautiful on calm days and hard work on windy ones.

ΕWhat to eat

Naxos graviera, a hard cheese made mostly from cow’s milk, is the island's pride, alongside Naxos potatoes and kitron, a liqueur made from citron leaves; a distillery in Chalki still produces it. Mountain tavernas lean on local meat and cheese; the coast leans on grilled fish. In Chora, Taverna Naxos is among the most-reviewed tables in town.

ΣΤGetting there

Naxos has an airport (JNX) with short turboprop flights from Athens, typically around 50 minutes; see airports. Ferries from Piraeus typically take 3h15 to 7h depending on the vessel. Naxos sits at the centre of the ferry web, 25 to 50 minutes from Paros and typically 1 to under 3 hours from Santorini, which makes it an easy hub for island hopping. Check times on our ferries page. From Romania there is no sensible drive; fly to Athens and connect (from Romania). The island is large: rent a car for at least a few days.

ΖWhen to go

Naxos is our climate proxy for the Cyclades: average highs around 26°C in June and 27°C in July and August, around 25°C in September. The sea is warmest from July to September, around 24–25°C. The meltemi blows hardest in July and August, which cools the air and can cancel small boats. Late May, June and September are the sweet spots. Many seasonal businesses close in winter; check before booking. See weather.

ΗWho it's for

Families will find few better Greek islands: shallow sand, reasonable prices, space. Walkers and food-minded travellers will stay busy. If you want designer nightlife or a caldera view from your pool, go elsewhere; Naxos is generous, not glamorous.