Corfu

ΑAn island that was never quite like the rest of Greece

Corfu spent around four centuries under Venice, then passed through French and British hands before joining Greece in 1864, and it shows. The capital looks more like a faded Adriatic port than a Cycladic village, the hills are green rather than bleached, and the olive groves planted under Venetian rule roll almost down to the sea. It is a big island with very different moods: package resorts in the north and south, old-money villas in the northeast, cliffs and surf-washed sand in the west, and Mount Pantokrator above it all.

ΒCorfu Town comes first

Give the Old Town, inscribed by UNESCO in 2007, at least a full day. The Old Fortress sits on its own promontory beyond a sea moat; the New Fortress watches the port from the other side. Between them lies Spianada, where cricket is still played on the grass, and the Liston arcade of cafés. The Palace of St Michael and St George holds the Museum of Asian Art, and the small Serbian Museum tells how the Serbian army was evacuated here in 1916. South of the centre, Mon Repos is a shaded park around the villa where Prince Philip was born, and Kanoni looks down on the whitewashed Vlacherna monastery, with planes landing just behind it. Honest warning: Corfu handled nearly 900,000 cruise passengers in 2025, so the lanes are packed late morning on ship days. Walk early or after 17:00.

ΓWhere to base yourself

Stay in town for atmosphere, restaurants and a car-free evening. The coast just north (Kontokali, Gouvia, Kommeno, Dassia) is resort territory, convenient for the airport and town. The northeast, from Nissaki through Kalami to Kassiopi, is the most elegant stretch: villas, small pebble bays and views across to Albania, best with a car. Paleokastritsa and Pelekas suit people who want scenery on the west coast; Agios Gordios and Glyfada suit sand-seekers. Sidari and Acharavi in the north are busy and family-oriented. Kavos, at the southern tip, is a party resort, and that is all it tries to be.

ΔBeaches, coast by coast

The west has the sand and the sunsets: Glyfada is the classic long beach below Pelekas, and Agios Gordios sits under dramatic cliffs. Around Paleokastritsa, coves like Agios Spiridon and Rovinia have remarkably clear water. The northwest has the showpieces, Porto Timoni, a double bay reached on foot, and the eroded sandstone of Canal d'Amour at Sidari, pretty but crowded. The northeast, Barbati and friends, is pebble and usually calm. In the south, Issos has dunes and space beside the Korission lagoon.

ΕPalaces, monasteries and high viewpoints

The Achilleion, built for Empress Elisabeth of Austria, is currently open for its gardens only while the palace is restored; the ticket is €7, so set expectations accordingly. More rewarding: the hilltop Paleokastritsa monastery, the ruined clifftop Angelokastro, and the Kaiser's Throne above Pelekas at sunset.

ΣΤWhat to eat and drink

Corfiot cooking has a Venetian accent. Look for pastitsada (beef or rooster slow-cooked in a spiced tomato sauce, served with pasta), sofrito (veal in garlic, vinegar and parsley) and bourdeto, a peppery fish stew. Kumquat liqueur and local ginger beer are the souvenirs. In town, Pane e Souvlaki is the busy, easy choice just off Spianada, To Tsipouradiko does meze, and Mikro Café is where the evening drifts.

ΖGetting there and when to go

Corfu airport (CFU) is a few kilometres from the Old Town. Ferries from Igoumenitsa typically take 1h10 to 1h30, with foot fares from around €6 and cars from around €24; see ferries and airports. Romanian drivers usually come down to Igoumenitsa on the Egnatia motorway; seasonal flights from Romania exist, but check the airline (from Romania). You will want a car outside town. July and August average highs around 31°C, with the sea near 25°C; late May, June and September are the sweet spot, and the sea is still warm in early October. The rain that keeps Corfu green falls mostly in winter, when many resorts close. Check the weather. Paxos is an easy boat day: see Paxos.

ΗWho it suits, and who should skip it

Corfu suits travellers who want history, food and beaches in one place, families, and anyone driving from the Balkans. It suits less well those after whitewashed Cycladic minimalism, empty beaches in August, or a car-free holiday outside town.