Thessaloniki

ΑA city that lives at street level

Thessaloniki is not a resort and does not pretend to be one. It is a working port and university city of around a million people in the wider area, and its pleasures are urban ones: a long coffee on the waterfront, a plate of meze in a side street, a fourth-century church wedged between apartment blocks. Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans and one of Europe’s great Sephardic Jewish communities all left their mark, and the 1917 fire that levelled much of the centre explains the grid of wide avenues running down to the sea.

ΒWhere to stay

• Centre, around Aristotelous and Tsimiski — the obvious base: walkable to the monuments, the markets and the waterfront. The Excelsior and The Modernist are the polished choices here.
• Ladadika and the port side — old warehouse streets turned bar-and-taverna quarter; lively and loud at night. The Caravan B&B is a well-reviewed small option nearby.
• Waterfront towards the White Tower — sea views and evening strolls; Daios Luxury Living sits on Nikis Avenue.
• Out by the airport — the Hyatt Regency works for a first or last night on a road trip, less so for exploring the city.

ΓMonuments worth your feet

Start at the White Tower, the city’s emblem and a good small museum, then walk the promenade to Aristotelous Square. Up Egnatia Street, the Arch of Galerius leads to the Rotunda, a Roman building that has been a church and a mosque. The Paleochristian and Byzantine monuments of Thessaloniki are a UNESCO World Heritage property: see at least the Church of Saint Demetrius and Hagia Sophia, and climb to the Upper Town (Ano Poli) for the walls, the Heptapyrgion and the tiny Hosios David. The Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Byzantine Culture next door deserve a morning between them. For all of it, check the day’s hours before you go.

ΔEating and drinking

This is one of the best eating cities in Greece, and locals will tell you so. Breakfast is bougatsa, filo pie with cream or cheese, and a sesame koulouri from a street bakery. The Kapani and Modiano markets are the place to see what the city cooks with. For dinner, Kanoula near Saint Demetrius and Taverna O Thodoros are among the most-reviewed tables in town; for seafood by the water, Mavri Thalassa in Kalamaria. Nights start late: Kafodeio Greek and Pulp are popular centre bars.

ΕBeaches: go south

Don’t swim in the bay by the city centre. The nearest proper beaches are along the Thermaikos coast to the south-east, around 20–30 minutes’ drive: Perea has a long, organised seafront with Blue Flag sections in 2026. For clear water, most people simply continue to Halkidiki, roughly an hour or more away.

ΣΤGetting there

Thessaloniki Makedonia Airport (SKG) is about 15 km from the centre; city buses 01X and 01N cost €2, and a taxi is typically around €25 by day. The metro opened in November 2024. From Romania, most people drive: via Sofia and the Kulata–Promachonas border, Bucharest to Thessaloniki is typically 9–10 hours. Expect a slow stretch through the Kresna Gorge in Bulgaria, buy the Bulgarian e-vignette online, and fill up before the border, where fuel has typically been cheaper. Flights from Bucharest exist in some seasons; check the airline. Details on /from-romania and /airports.

ΖWhen to go

Spring (April–May) and autumn (late September–October) are the sweet spots. Summers are hot, with average highs around 31–32°C in July and August, and many locals leave for Halkidiki in August. Winters are colder than the islands, with January highs near 9°C and a sharp north wind. The Thessaloniki International Film Festival runs 5–15 November 2026. More on /weather.

ΗWho it suits

Come for food, history, city walks and a proper urban night, or as a two-day stop before the beaches. Skip it as a beach holiday in itself: the sea here is a view, not a swim.