Paros

ΑThe easy island, now a little less easy

Paros does most things well. It has a real town, a pretty harbour, whitewashed villages, good beaches and ferries to almost everywhere, all within an hour's drive. That balance made it the Cyclades' sensible choice for years, and it is now firmly fashionable: Naoussa in August is as polished and as expensive as parts of Mykonos. The island still has quieter corners, but you have to choose them deliberately.

ΒWhere to base yourself

Parikia, the port and capital, is practical and more authentic than it first looks once you step off the waterfront into the old lanes. Good for ferry connections and for travellers without a car.

Naoussa, on the north coast, is the pretty one: a small fishing harbour with a Venetian fortification, boutique hotels, cocktail bars and restaurants that book out. Best for couples who want evenings out; skip it if you hate crowds in high season.

Piso Livadi, Logaras and Marpissa on the east coast are calmer and suit families, close to the island's best sandy bays. Aliki in the south is quiet and near the airport. Lefkes, in the hills, is for those who want village silence and a car.

ΓWhat to see

The Panagia Ekatontapyliani in Parikia, the "church of a hundred doors", is one of the finest early Christian churches in Greece and five minutes' walk from the ferry. Nearby, the Frankish Castle was built with marble taken from ancient temples; the reused column drums are plain to see. The Archaeological Museum is small and worthwhile.

Inland, Lefkes is the most beautiful village, and an old stone-paved Byzantine path runs from there down towards Prodromos and Marpissa, a fine walk outside the midday heat. In the north, Paros Park covers the headland at Agios Ioannis Detis with walking trails and coves. Across the strait, the Cave of Antiparos is a deep stalactite cave reached by a long flight of steps.

ΔBeaches

The north has the famous one: Kolymbithres, small sandy pockets between smoothed granite boulders, easiest reached by boat from Naoussa. Santa Maria and Lageri lie further east. On the south-east coast, Golden Beach is long and sandy and a windsurfing favourite when the meltemi blows; Logaras near Piso Livadi is more sheltered. On the west, Agia Irini is a calm option near Parikia. Antiparos adds more, from organised Psaralyki near the village to wilder Soros and Sostis.

ΕEating and drinking

Seafood is the thing: Naoussa harbour for evening meze, Piso Livadi and Logaras for fish tavernas with fewer airs, where Ouzeri Halaris is one of the island's most-reviewed tables. Paros also makes wine, much of it from the local Monemvasia grape. For a drink after dark, Parikia's seafront and Naoussa's lanes do the job.

ΣΤGetting there

Paros has a small airport (PAS) with flights from Athens; see airports. Ferries from Piraeus typically take 2h40 to 5h35, and Naxos is 25 to 50 minutes away, which is why Paros anchors so many island-hopping routes. Antiparos is a short crossing, by small car ferry from Pounta or by boat from Parikia. Check the day's schedules on our ferries page. From Romania, fly to Athens and continue by boat or plane (from Romania).

ΖWhen to go and what to watch for

Expect Cycladic weather: average highs around 26–27°C from June to August, around 25°C in September (Naxos, next door, is a fair proxy), and a sea around 24–25°C in late summer. July and August bring the meltemi, full ferries and hard parking in Naoussa; mid-August, around the Dormition feast on 15 August, is the island's busiest week. June and September are better value. See weather.

ΗWho should go, who should skip

Go if you want a bit of everything and good connections. Skip Naoussa in August if you're on a budget; choose the east coast or Antiparos instead.