Parga & Sivota

ΑTwo harbours on the Ionian shore

This stretch of the Epirus coast feels more like an island than the mainland. Parga is an amphitheatre of pastel houses climbing from a small bay to a Venetian castle, with an islet chapel floating just offshore. Further up the coast towards Igoumenitsa, Sivota is a fishing harbour turned sailing base, surrounded by pine-covered islets and water in improbable shades of turquoise. Both are summer towns built around the sea, full of families, many from Greece, Italy and the Balkans, and both are busy in July and August. Romanians know the area well; plenty drive down every year.

ΒWhere to base yourself

Parga town is lively and walkable, with the most restaurants and the castle views, but its lanes are steep and parking in summer is genuinely difficult; choose a hotel that offers a space, or leave the car at the edge of town. Valtos and Lichnos, the long beaches on either side, suit families who want the sea at the door. Anthousa, in the hills behind Parga, is quieter and cooler, with sweeping views. Sivota works for couples and anyone planning to spend their days on a boat. Around Perdika and Arillas, between the two, there are big sandy beaches and newer resort hotels.

ΓWhat to see

Start with the Venetian Castle above town, a short, steep walk that repays you with the classic view over the bay; go in the late afternoon. Above Anthousa, the Castle of Anthousa, built by Ali Pasha, is quieter and a fine sunset spot. In town, the Paragaea Old Olive Oil Factory tells the story of the olive groves that surround Parga.

Inland, the river Acheron, which the ancients believed led to the underworld, makes the best half-day trip. At the Acheron springs near Glyki you can wade upstream into a cold, clear gorge in water shoes. Near the river mouth at Mesopotamos, the Necromanteion, the ancient Oracle of the Dead, sits on a low hill; check the day’s hours before you drive there.

ΔBeaches, by boat and by car

Around Parga, Kryoneri is the town beach facing the islet. Over the castle hill, Valtos is a long, organised stretch of sand and pebbles, while Lichnos, to the east, is a sheltered bay with clear water. West of town, Sarakiniko is a green-fringed cove. Water taxis link Parga with its beaches in summer, which beats hunting for parking.

Sivota is the turquoise end. Bella Vraka, a narrow strip of sand with shallow water on both sides, and Megali Ammos are reached by road. The famous Blue Lagoon, between the islets, is best reached by boat; small self-drive boats and excursion boats leave from Sivota harbour. Further south, Karavostasi near Perdika is a big sandy bay popular with families.

ΕFood

Epirus is pie country, so look for handmade savoury pies alongside grilled meat, local olive oil and fresh fish. In Parga, Taverna Lithos is among the most-reviewed tables in town. At Anthousa, To Dichty is a fish taverna with a large following, and in Sivota Oliva sits right on Megali Ammos beach.

ΣΤGetting there

The nearest airport is Preveza/Aktion (PVK), about 65 km from Parga; see airports. Igoumenitsa, close to Sivota, has ferries to Corfu that typically take 1h10–1h30, and in summer excursion boats run from Parga to Paxos. There is no scheduled ferry from Sivota to Paxos. For Romanians driving, the usual route runs through Bulgaria to Thessaloniki and then west on the Egnatia Odos motorway to Igoumenitsa, where the tolls are charged per kilometre; it is a long journey, best split with a night on the way. Details on our from Romania page.

ΖWhen to go

Corfu, just across the water, is the closest climate proxy: highs around 31°C in July and August and 27–28°C in September, with the sea around 25°C in high summer. This coast is greener than the Aegean because it gets more rain outside summer. June and September are ideal; mid-July to late August means full beaches, packed boats and the parking problem at its worst. See weather.

ΗWho it’s for, and who should skip it

Parga and Sivota suit families, road-trippers from Romania and the Balkans, and anyone who wants island-style water with the freedom of a car. Skip them in August if you hate crowds, and skip them altogether if you want dramatic nightlife, ancient cities or a car-free holiday.