Zakynthos

ΑAn island with a split personality

Zakynthos (Zante to the Italians who ruled it for centuries, and to most charter flights) does not do subtle. The south coast is package-holiday country, with Laganas as its neon capital. Drive an hour north-west and the island turns into something else entirely: bare limestone plateau, stone villages, olive groves and cliffs that drop straight into water of an almost unreasonable blue. Most visitors see one half. The better trip sees both.

The capital, Zakynthos Town, was rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake, so do not expect a preserved Venetian old town. It is still a pleasant evening: arcaded streets, Solomos Square on the waterfront, the church of Saint Dionysios, dedicated to the island's patron, and the hill of Bochali above, where the panoramic viewpoint looks over the harbour.

ΒWhere to base yourself

• Tsilivi (Planos), north of town: organised, family-friendly, plenty of tavernas and mid-range hotels. Easy for exploring both halves of the island.
• Kalamaki: quieter than its neighbour and close to the airport, which also means aircraft noise in summer.
• Laganas: a party strip, full stop. Fine if that is the plan; a poor choice otherwise.
• Vasilikos peninsula: greener, spread out, better beaches, and you need a car.
• Alykes and Alykanas: long sandy bays on the north-east coast, calm and good for children.

ΓThe north-west, and the Navagio question

Navagio, Shipwreck Beach, is the image on every poster of the island. In 2026 you see it from above: the beach is closed to landing and swimming until 31 October 2026 because of landslide risk, and boats cannot put you ashore. The clifftop viewpoint is the way to do it, early in the morning, before the coaches arrive. Stay behind the railings; the edge is crumbly.

Nearby, the Blue Caves at Cape Skinari are reached only by small boat from Agios Nikolaos, best in the morning light and calm seas. Round the day off at Porto Limnionas, a narrow rocky inlet where you swim off flat rocks rather than from sand, and at the Cross of Kampi for sunset.

ΔBeaches, coast by coast

The south belongs to the turtles. Laganas Bay is a national marine park, and loggerheads nest on its beaches from early summer. Gerakas is a protected nesting beach with rules to match: nesting beaches are typically closed at night from May to October, and umbrellas are restricted near the waterline. Respect the marked zones. Next door on Vasilikos, St. Nicholas is the organised, watersports option. The north-east has long sandy bays at Alykes and Alykanas, while the north coast offers pebbly coves such as Makris Gialos and the sulphur-tinged water at Xigia.

ΕEating well

Zakynthos is olive country; the Olive Press Museum near Lithakia explains the old way of doing it. Look out for mandolato, the local almond nougat, and for kantades, the island's serenade tradition, in town tavernas. In the capital, Alektor is one of the most-reviewed tables on the island; in the south, Grecos is a dependable seafood address. Book ahead in August.

ΣΤGetting there and around

Zakynthos airport (ZTH) sits just south of town and fills with charter and seasonal flights in summer; from Romania, direct seasonal flights have been offered from several cities, so check the airline for this year's schedule. By sea, ferries cross from Kyllini in the western Peloponnese in typically around 1h15, and they carry cars. See ferries and airports. Once here, rent a car: the island is small enough to cross in about an hour, but buses will not get you to the viewpoints.

ΖWhen to go

The Ionian is greener and wetter than the Aegean, with rain concentrated in winter. Corfu's figures are a fair proxy: July and August highs around 31°C, June and September a few degrees cooler, and the sea around 25°C from July into September. June and September are the sweet spot, with warm water and Laganas at half volume. Most resort businesses close from November to April. Current conditions are on weather.

ΗWho it suits, who should skip it

Zakynthos suits families who want easy sandy beaches, couples willing to drive for the north-west, and groups who have come specifically for Laganas. It does not suit anyone who wants the Greece of stone lanes and quiet harbours as the main event, or who planned the trip around swimming at Navagio this year. For that island, look at Kefalonia next door.