Nafplio & the Peloponnese

ΑA capital that kept its looks

Nafplio was the first capital of modern Greece, and it still carries itself like one. The old town is a tight grid of neoclassical houses, bougainvillea and polished marble paving squeezed between the sea and the rock of Acronauplia, with the Palamidi fortress glowering from above and the little Bourtzi castle sitting in the harbour. It is a favourite weekend escape for Athenians, which means Friday nights are lively and Sunday afternoons quiet. Foreign visitors come for the archaeology; most of them leave talking about the town.

ΒWhere to stay

Stay inside the old town if you can: everything is on foot, and the evening walk along the waterfront is the point. Small boutique hotels such as AETOMA occupy restored mansions near Agios Spyridon square; bigger properties like the Amalia Hotel sit outside the centre, better for drivers who want easy parking. Families after a beach holiday usually prefer Tolo, about a quarter of an hour away, with a long sandy shore and plenty of apartments. Drepano and Kantia, further east, are quieter.

ΓThe town and its fortresses

Start in Syntagma Square, the marble-paved heart of the old town, where the Archaeological Museum fills a Venetian arsenal building. Climb to Palamidi early in the morning: the Venetians built it in the early eighteenth century and the stairway from town runs to around 850 steps (the famous "999" is local legend). You can also drive to the upper gate; check the current ticket price before you go. Walk round the promontory below Acronauplia on the coastal path to Arvanitia, and in season, take a short boat from the port out to Bourtzi for the view back at the town.

ΔMycenae, Tiryns and Epidaurus

This is why Nafplio sits on most itineraries. Mycenae, with the Lion Gate and the Treasury of Atreus, is roughly half an hour north; Tiryns, with its Cyclopean walls, is just outside town and far less visited. The theatre at Epidaurus is around 45 minutes east and still stages summer performances during the Athens Epidaurus Festival. Mycenae and Epidaurus each cost €20. With more time, Nemea and its wineries sit north, while Olympia and Mystras (€20 each) are full-day or overnight trips across the Peloponnese.

ΕBeaches

Arvanitia, the town beach, is pebbly and practical for a swim after the Palamidi climb. Karathona is a long sandy bay a short drive or a pleasant walk away. Tolo is the busy, organised resort beach, easy with children. East of Drepano, Kondyli holds a Blue Flag for 2026.

ΣΤEating

The waterfront along Bouboulinas street is lined with fish restaurants; Pidalio, just beyond the old town, is one of the most-reviewed restaurants in the area. Argolida is citrus country, so look for local oranges in season, and order a bottle of Agiorgitiko from nearby Nemea. Book ahead on Saturday nights, when Athenians fill the tables.

ΖGetting there and when to go

There is no airport: fly to Athens (ATH) and drive roughly two hours, around 140 km via the Corinth Canal, or take a KTEL bus. Romanians driving down should budget a long day beyond Thessaloniki; many prefer to fly to Athens and rent a car. The Athens coastal figures on our weather page are a fair proxy: highs around 32°C in July and August, pleasant 23–28°C in September and October, mild winters. Spring and autumn suit the ancient sites best, since there is little shade at Mycenae or Tiryns. See ancient sites for tickets and free days.

ΗWho it suits

Nafplio is for couples, culture-minded travellers and anyone combining history with a few swims. It is not a beach resort, the beaches are good rather than great, and summer weekends are crowded. Bring a car: the sites are spread out and public transport between them is thin.