Lefkada

ΑThe island without a ferry

Lefkada is barely an island at all. A short causeway and floating bridge beside the Agia Mavra fortress connect it to the mainland, so you drive straight in with no ticket and no timetable. That single fact shapes the place: it is busy with Greek families, road-trippers from the Balkans and, noticeably, Romanians who drive down for the summer.

It is also an island of two coasts. The west faces open sea, with high white cliffs, long beaches of pale pebbles and a turquoise that looks artificial in photographs. The east is sheltered and green, looking across to a scatter of islets, and it is one of the best sailing grounds in Greece.

ΒWhere to stay

• Lefkada Town: a lagoon-side town of narrow lanes, where many houses have upper floors clad in painted metal sheeting, a local answer to earthquakes. Lively in the evenings, with good tavernas, and close to the northern beaches.
• Agios Nikitas: a small, pretty west-coast village, the most practical base for Kathisma and Mylos. Parking is a daily battle in August.
• Nidri: the east-coast boat-trip hub. Busy and commercial, but ideal for exploring by sea.
• Nikiana and Ligia: quieter east-coast strips between town and Nidri, with apartments and small hotels.
• Vasiliki: in the south, known for windsurfing thanks to a reliable afternoon breeze, and the port for boats to Kefalonia.

ΓThe west coast beaches

This is why people come. Porto Katsiki, on the southern tip, sits under towering cliffs and is reached by around 80–100 steps down from a paid car park; arrive early or late. Egremni, further north, is officially closed by land, so do not plan on walking down: if you see it, it will be from a boat. Kathisma is the long, organised one, with sunbeds, bars and paragliders overhead. Mylos is wilder, reached by a footpath over the hill from Agios Nikitas or by a short boat ride. The west coast gets waves, especially in the afternoon; watch children closely.

On the south-east, Ammoussa and Afteli are smaller and calmer.

ΔOut on the water, and up in the hills

From Nidri, day boats tour the inner islands: Meganisi, with its sea caves and quiet harbours, and past Skorpios, the island that belonged to the Onassis family. A short walk inland from Nidri leads to the Dimosari waterfalls, best in early summer before they shrink.

Inland, the mountain villages are a different Lefkada. Karya has a folklore museum and a plane-shaded square; near Syvros the Fabbrica olive museum is worth an hour. The Faneromeni Monastery looks down on the town and lagoon. For sunset, drive to the Cape Lefkatas lighthouse at the island's southern end, where legend has Sappho leaping from the cliff.

ΕAt the table

Lefkada is known in Greece for the small lentils of Eglouvi, grown on a mountain plateau, and for its cured salami. Book a sunset table at Rachi in Exanthia, high above the west coast and one of the most-reviewed restaurants on the island; in Nidri, Basilico is a busy waterfront address. In town, the old-quarter tavernas are the better value.

ΣΤGetting there

By car, simply cross the bridge. From Romania, Lefkada is one of the most popular drive-to islands: the usual route runs through Bulgaria and Thessaloniki, then west on the Egnatia motorway. It is a long haul, and most people split it over two days; see from Romania for borders, vignettes and tolls. The nearest airport is Preveza/Aktion (PVK), around 20 km away, with seasonal flights. Between April and October a boat links Vasiliki with Fiskardo on Kefalonia in about an hour. More on airports and getting around.

ΖWhen to go

Lefkada follows the Ionian pattern; Corfu's figures are a fair guide: July and August highs around 31°C, a sea around 25°C from July into September, and a wet winter. June and September are best: the water is warm, the steps to Porto Katsiki are bearable and you can park. In August, the island is full and so are the roads to the west coast. Check weather before a boat day.

ΗWho it suits, who should skip it

Lefkada is made for independent travellers with a car, for families who drive from home, for sailors and windsurfers, and for anyone who wants several very different beaches within an hour. It is less suited to those who want polished luxury, a walkable island without driving, or quiet in August. If you want Egremni's sand under your feet, that is not on offer by land.