Mykonos

ΑTwo islands on one rock

There are two Mykonos. One is a small, dry Cycladic island with a handsome whitewashed port town, a farming village in the middle and a coastline of sandy bays. The other is a global party brand of beach clubs, superyachts and some of the highest prices in the Mediterranean. They overlap in July and August. The first Mykonos is easier to find in June and September, and in town before ten in the morning.

ΒWhere to base yourself

Chora (Mykonos Town) is the obvious base if you want to walk to dinner and bars, and the noisiest. Its fringes, around Drafaki and towards the Old Port, are calmer. Ornos and Agios Ioannis, on the south-west coast, suit families and anyone who wants a beach on the doorstep with town close by. Platis Gialos and Psarou are the polished south-coast resorts. Ano Mera, inland, is the only proper village and the cheapest place to eat.

ΓChora and the classic sights

Chora's lanes were laid out to confuse pirates and now confuse everyone else. Walk them early. The windmills on the ridge above the harbour and the waterfront houses of Little Venice are the set pieces, and the sunset crowd gathers between the two. Panagia Paraportiani, a cluster of chapels fused into a single whitewashed sculpture, is the town's most photographed church. Out of town, the Armenistis Lighthouse on the north-west cape makes a quieter sunset, and the Monastery of Tourliani anchors Ano Mera.

ΔDelos, the real reason to come

The best thing to do on Mykonos is leave it for a morning. Delos, a short crossing away, was the mythical birthplace of Apollo and Artemis and one of the great sanctuaries and trading ports of the ancient Aegean; the whole island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Boats leave from the Old Port: Delos Tours charges €25 return, with departures at 10:00 and, from May to October, at 16:30. Site entry is a separate €20. There is almost no shade and no swimming: bring a hat and water. Boats do not sail in rough weather; check the day before. More on ancient sites.

ΕBeaches by coast

The south coast is the famous one, sheltered from the north wind. Psarou and neighbouring Platis Gialos are sleek and very expensive; Paraga and Paradise lean young and loud; Super Paradise is party territory; Elia is long, with a traditionally nudist end. Further east, Kalo Livadi and Kalafati are broad and more relaxed, and Kalafati is the island's watersports base. The north coast takes the wind: Ftelia is a windsurfing beach, while Agios Sostis is unorganised and lovely on days when the meltemi rests.

ΣΤEating without being fleeced

Mykonian food is simpler than the bills suggest: kopanisti, the peppery fermented cheese with protected status, louza (cured pork) and almond sweets. On the Old Port side of town, Kavos Taverna is one of the most-reviewed tables on the island. Kiki's Tavern above Agios Sostis does not take reservations, so the queue is part of lunch. Ask the price of fish by the kilo before you order: this is the island where restaurant bills make the news.

ΖGetting there and around

Mykonos airport (JMK) sits just outside town, with flights from Athens and many seasonal international routes; for direct summer flights from Bucharest, check the airline. Note the runway closes every Thursday from 19 November 2026 to 18 March 2027. Ferries from Piraeus or Rafina typically take from 2h40 to nearly 6 hours; Rafina is the closer port to Athens airport. Most boats use the New Port at Tourlos, north of Chora. KTEL buses link town with the main beaches, but taxis are scarce in August, so book transfers or rent a scooter or small car. See ferries and airports.

ΗWhen to go, and the caveats

Using Naxos as a fair proxy for the Cyclades, highs are around 22°C in May, 26°C in June, 27°C in July and August and 25°C in September. The meltemi defines summer: strong north winds, worst in July and August, which can cancel fast ferries and make north-coast beaches unusable. Late May, June and September give warm sea, open businesses and room to breathe; most seasonal places shut between November and April. Mykonos received around 1.29 million cruise passengers in 2024, each paying €20 from June to September, and Chora's lanes swell on ship days. Check the weather.

ΘWho should go, and who shouldn't

Go for nightlife, design hotels, sandy beaches within twenty minutes of a cosmopolitan town, and Delos. Skip it if budget matters, if crowds wear you down, or if you want an island that runs at Greek pace: Naxos or Paros will suit you better.