Where to eat in Greece: tavernas & restaurants

ΑReading a Greek menu of places

A taverna is the everyday Greek restaurant: grilled meat, oven dishes, salads, local wine by the carafe. A psarotaverna is a fish taverna — fresh fish is usually priced by the kilo, so ask to see the fish and have it weighed before it is cooked. A mezedopoleio or ouzeri serves small plates to share with ouzo or tsipouro. An estiatorio is a restaurant in the fuller sense, and on the big islands you will also find fine dining with a view priced accordingly.

ΒIsland by island

Every island cooks its own way. On Crete look for dakos, snails and the island's cheeses — and do not be surprised by a small complimentary dessert or raki at the end. Santorini is known for its fava and tomato fritters grown in volcanic soil. Corfu shows its Venetian past in pastitsada and sofrito. Sifnos has a long cooking tradition of its own, slow-baked chickpeas among it.

ΓHow eating out works

Greeks eat late. Dinner at nine or ten is normal; tavernas in tourist areas open earlier, but the atmosphere arrives later. A bread and cover charge is normal and appears on the bill. Tipping is appreciated rather than required — rounding up or leaving five to ten per cent for good service is customary. The sunset table in Oia or on any caldera terrace is the one thing worth booking days ahead in summer; use the Sea view filter to find them.