The north-east coast: Dassia to Kassiopi

This is the coast that made Corfu fashionable and keeps it that way. Mount Pantokrator comes down to the sea in terraces of olive and cypress, the water is deep and glass-clear, and the beaches are small shingle coves rather than sand — Barbati, Nissaki, Kerasia, Avlaki. The British have been renting villas here since the Durrells, which is why you will hear the stretch called Kensington-on-Sea.

The bottom of the cluster, from Gouvia and Kontokali up to Dassia and Kommeno, is where the big resorts sit: marinas, all-inclusives, spa hotels, and a short run into Corfu Town. The top end, Kalami and Kassiopi, is quieter, prettier and a long way from the airport.

Two honest warnings. The coves are pebble, so bring something for your feet. And the coast road is narrow, cut into the hillside and busy in August — a hire car is near-essential up here, but it is not a relaxing drive.