The west coast beaches

This is why Lefkada has the reputation it has. The west coast is a wall of chalk cliff with beaches at the foot of it, and the combination of white stone and deep water gives a turquoise that looks edited. Kathisma is the big one, with sunbeds and beach bars; Mylos, Avali and Kavalikefta are smaller, steeper and better; Pefkoulia is long and sandy and the easiest with children.

Agios Nikitas is the only real village on this side, a single lane of tavernas running down to a small bay, and it is packed by midday in August. Most people stay elsewhere and drive over, parking above the beaches and walking down — the car parks are small and the roads are steep.

Two things to plan for. The afternoon wind that makes Lefkada famous with surfers also builds a swell on this coast, so it is not always a calm-water swim. And there is almost no shade: come early, or come after four when the cliff turns the beach cool.