Church of Panagia Gremniotissa

Panagia Gremniotissa is the church at the top of Chora, above the tangle of lanes and bars, and the name says where it stands: gremnos is Greek for a cliff edge. The building is small, white and simple, and the icon inside is the object of local devotion, but most visitors climb for the view over the rooftops of Chora, the port bay and the sea towards Sikinos.

The way up is a series of whitewashed steps and short lanes from the centre of the village, a steady ten minutes on foot. It is best before sunset, when the light turns the town gold, and much calmer than the evening crowd below. Dress modestly if you step inside, and remember that this is a working church, not a viewing platform.