Ios

ΑThe island that grew up

Ios made its name as the backpacker party island of the Cyclades, and in July and August Chora still does that job loudly. But the island is bigger than its reputation: a hilltop Chora with a ridge of windmills, a long organised beach at Mylopotas, empty bays on the east and south coasts at the end of rough roads, and a genuinely quiet shoulder season. In June and September it is one of the better-value islands in the central Cyclades, and a natural stop between Santorini and Naxos.

ΒPort, Chora or beach: where to stay

Three bases, three moods. Ormos, the port, also called Gialos, is practical, with a sandy town beach and easy ferry mornings. Chora, on the hill above, is the heart of the nightlife: pretty whitewashed lanes by day, bars until dawn in peak season, so sleep elsewhere unless that is the plan. Mylopotas, a short bus ride over the hill, has the main beach, most of the hotels, watersports and beach bars, and suits most visitors best. For real quiet, the resorts of the south coast around Manganari and Papas are remote and need a car.

ΓWhat to see

Chora rewards a slow morning walk. Climb to Panagia Gremniotissa at the top of the village for the view over the port and the open sea. On the ridge past the windmills, the Odysseas Elytis Amphitheatre is a modern open-air stone theatre named after the Nobel-winning poet, with a sweeping sunset outlook, and the Gaïtis-Simossi Museum close by shows modern art by the two artists it is named after. North of Chora, the Archaeological Site of Skarkos preserves an Early Bronze Age settlement, with finds displayed in the small archaeological museum in Chora. Tradition places Homer's grave at Plakotos in the far north of the island; there is more atmosphere than monument, but the drive is wild and beautiful.

ΔBeaches around the island

Mylopotas is the showpiece: a long curve of sand with sunbeds, watersports and calm, shallow water on still mornings. Near the port, Gialos and Koumbara are handy for a last swim before the ferry. On the north-east coast, Agia Theodoti is a wide sandy bay with a couple of tavernas. Manganari, in the south, is a set of sandy coves that feels a long way from Chora. Kalamos and Psathi on the east coast are for people with a car, patience on unpaved stretches and their own shade.

ΕEating and drinking

Ios food is straightforward island cooking: grilled meat and fish, local cheeses, Cycladic salads. The good places tend to be away from the fast-food lanes of Chora. Vilaeti Tavern in Epano Kampos is among the most-reviewed tavernas on the island, and IOS Club in Chora is the long-running sunset address for a drink and dinner. Nightlife ranges from cocktail bars in Chora's lanes to beach parties on Mylopotas; in peak weeks it starts late and ends at sunrise.

ΣΤGetting there and around

Ios has no airport. Ferries dock at Ormos; from Piraeus the trip typically takes from 4h15 on a fast boat to around 10 hours on a conventional one. Most people combine Ios with Santorini, Naxos or Paros on an island-hopping route, and Santorini's airport is the nearest if you would rather fly and continue by boat. Local buses link the port, Chora and Mylopotas in season; for Manganari, Agia Theodoti and the east coast, rent a car or scooter. Check ferries for current timetables and keep your last night near a larger island with flights.

ΖWhen to go

The Cyclades pattern holds. Using Naxos as a fair proxy, highs are around 22°C in May, 27°C in July and August and 25°C in September, and the sea is warmest from July to September, at around 24–25°C in nearby Santorini. The meltemi can blow for days in July and August, roughing up north-facing bays and cancelling small fast boats. Mid-July to late August is party season. June and September are calmer, cheaper and better for beaches; from October many hotels and bars close and winter is very quiet. See the weather.

ΗWho it's for, and who should skip it

Twenty-somethings chasing a legendary summer and groups of friends, obviously. Outside peak weeks, also couples and families who want a sandy beach and friendlier prices than on Santorini or Mykonos. Skip a room in Chora in August if you need sleep, and skip Ios altogether if you are after polished luxury or major archaeology.