Paxos

ΑSmall island, big following

Paxos is roughly ten kilometres of olive trees, dry-stone walls and cliffs, lying south of Corfu and a short sail off the Epirus coast. There is no airport, no big resort and not much in the way of sand, and that is exactly why a loyal crowd of villa renters, sailors and returning British and Italian families keeps coming back. The mood is quiet, well-heeled and unhurried. It is not cheap, and in August it is not empty either.

ΒGaios, Loggos or Lakka

The island has three harbour villages on its sheltered east and north sides. Gaios, the port and capital, is the liveliest: a narrow harbour between the town and two wooded islets, with most of the shops, restaurants and ferry connections. Loggos, in the middle, is the smallest, a fishing hamlet of a few waterside tavernas that suits couples who want nothing to do. Lakka, in the north, wraps around a near-circular bay of shallow, bright water and is the best choice for families and anyone who wants to swim straight from the village. Most accommodation is in villas and small apartments scattered in the olive groves; a hotel such as Agali, on the coast road south of Gaios, is the exception rather than the rule.

ΓThe west coast from the water

The dramatic side of Paxos is the west, where limestone cliffs drop straight into deep blue water and the sea has hollowed out caves and arches. It is best seen by boat, and renting a small motorboat in Gaios or Lakka is the classic Paxos day (no licence is needed for the smallest engines; check the rules with the renter). Look for Ypapanti's Cave, one of the largest sea caves on the island, and Papanikolis Cave, named after the Greek submarine said to have hidden inside during the Second World War. On land, the natural rock arch of Tripitos in the south is a short walk through the olives, and the cliffs near Erimitis are where the island gathers for sunset.

ΔBeaches: pebbles, coves and Antipaxos

Paxos beaches are almost all pebble, small and reached by path or boat. Kipiadi and Marmari near Loggos are pretty coves with clear water; Orkos sits just outside Lakka; Erimitis on the west coast has white rock and a steep way down. The real beach day, though, is Antipaxos, the tiny island to the south, where Voutoumi and Vrika have the pale seabed and turquoise water that end up on every postcard. Taxi boats and excursion boats leave from Gaios. Arrive early; by midday in high season the anchored boats outnumber the swimmers.

ΕEating on Paxos

Olive oil is the island's product and it turns up everywhere, alongside simply grilled fish and Ionian taverna cooking. Gaios has the widest choice: Bona Terra is among the most-reviewed tables on the island. In Lakka, Paxoimadi is the most-reviewed table in the village. Book ahead for dinner in July and August, when yacht crews fill the waterfronts.

ΣΤGetting there

With no airport, most people fly to Corfu (CFU) and take a boat: crossings from Corfu Town typically take 45 minutes to 1h20, with foot fares from around €15, and the timetable thins out sharply outside summer. There are also ferries from Igoumenitsa, typically around 1h35, which is the natural route for anyone driving from Romania via northern Greece; see ferries and from Romania. There is no scheduled ferry from Sivota, only excursions, and excursion boats from Parga and Corfu bring day-trippers who crowd Gaios at midday. Once there, a scooter, a small rental car or a boat is enough.

ΖWhen to go

Paxos shares Corfu's climate: highs around 31°C in July and August, sea around 25°C, and a greener, rainier winter. June and September are ideal, with warm water, easier boat rentals and quieter harbours. Much of the island closes from late autumn to spring, and winter boats are fewer and weather-dependent. See weather.

ΗWho should go, and who should not

Go for slow days, boat trips, good dinners and swimming off rocks. Skip it if you want long sandy beaches, nightlife, bargain prices or a big choice of hotels.