Symi

ΑThe best arrival in the Dodecanese

Few harbours in Greece announce themselves like Gialos. The boat turns into a narrow inlet and the whole town rises in front of you: tiers of neoclassical mansions in ochre, cream and faded rose, with pediments and tiled roofs, climbing the bare hills on both sides. The wealth behind them came from sponge diving, shipbuilding and trade in the nineteenth century; the decline that followed left many houses empty, and some are still shells behind their façades. Symi is small, steep, dry and rocky. It is also the place where the surrender of the German forces in the Dodecanese was signed in May 1945.

ΒTwo faces of the day

Symi has a daily rhythm you should plan around. From late morning, excursion boats from Rhodes unload day trippers into the harbour; they shop, eat by the water and leave in the afternoon. After that the island belongs to people who stay, and the evenings on the quay are quiet and lovely. Stay two or three nights.

ΓWhere to base yourself

Gialos, the harbour, has most restaurants, shops and boats; Iapetos Village Hotel is a short walk back from the water. Chorio (Ano Symi), the upper town, is reached by the Kali Strata, a long stepped street of several hundred steps; it is quieter, has wider views and suits people happy to climb, with the Opera House Hotel up here. Pedi, a bay on the other side of the hill, is flatter, with a small beach and the Pedi Beach Hotel; a bus links it with Gialos and Chorio. Nimborios (Emporios), west of the harbour, is the quietest option.

ΔWhat to see

The big sight is the Monastery of Panormitis, dedicated to the Archangel Michael, the patron saint of sailors, on a sheltered bay in the far south of the island. It is a major pilgrimage site with an ornate bell tower and a small museum; some boats from Rhodes call there first. Dress modestly. In Gialos, walk out to the Clock Tower at the harbour mouth, then climb the Kali Strata to Chorio. Up there, the Archaeological Museum covers local history, the ruins of the citadel crown the hill, and a row of old windmills looks over Pedi. Walkers can head west to the Roukouniotis Monastery. Go early: stone and steps hold the heat.

ΕBeaches by boat

Symi's coast is rocky, and the good swimming is in pebble coves on the east and south, most easily reached by the taxi boats that leave Gialos and Pedi each morning in season. Agios Georgios Dysalonas is the dramatic one, a pebble beach under a sheer cliff wall, reachable only by sea. Nanou is a wider bay with trees and a taverna, and Marathounda is a small, quiet cove. Close to Pedi, Agia Marina faces a tiny islet with a chapel, a walk or short boat ride from Pedi. Bring shade and water shoes; facilities are basic or absent.

ΣΤEating and drinking

Order Symi shrimp: tiny local shrimp, fried and eaten whole, shell and all. In Chorio, Taverna Haris is the most-reviewed table on the island, and Kali Strata Restaurant, on the steps, comes with the harbour view. Down in Gialos, O Lyris is a well-reviewed option. Sponges sold along the quay are the classic souvenir.

ΖGetting there and around

Symi has no airport. Fly to Rhodes (RHO), then take the boat: crossings typically take 45 minutes to 1h30, with fares from around €6 on the slower boats. Dodekanisos Seaways and other operators link Symi with Rhodes and, on some days, with Kos and other Dodecanese islands. From Romania, check the airline for seasonal flights to Rhodes or connect through Athens. See ferries and island hopping. On the island, a small bus runs between Gialos, Chorio and Pedi, taxis go to Panormitis, and taxi boats serve the beaches. You do not need a car.

ΗWhen to go

Rhodes, next door, is the fair climate proxy: highs around 24°C in May, 30–31°C in July and August and 28°C in September, with the sea around 26–27°C from July to September. The harbour amphitheatre traps heat. May, June, September and early October are the best months; many places close or slow down in winter, so check before booking. See the weather.

ΘWho it's for, and who should skip it

Couples, walkers, photographers and anyone who likes a small island with a strong sense of place. Skip it if stairs are a problem, if you want sandy beaches you can drive to, or if you need nightlife. Don't do it only as a day trip if you can avoid it: the midday harbour is the island at its worst, and the evening is Symi at its best.