Hydra

ΑAn island that said no to the car

Hydra has kept its looks by refusing things. There are no cars. You arrive by boat into a horseshoe harbour ringed by grey-stone mansions, and from there everything moves on foot, on the back of a mule or donkey, or by water taxi. The money behind those mansions came from shipping in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and the Hydriot fleet carried a large share of the naval war of 1821; the cannons still lined up on the harbour walls are not decoration. Since Leonard Cohen bought a house here in 1960 the island has drawn writers and painters, and more recently the contemporary art crowd. Weekends bring well-dressed Athenians. In summer, the one-day cruises from Athens tie up for a few hours around midday, and the harbour front briefly feels like a queue.

ΒWhere to base yourself

Hydra Town is the only real town and the right base for a first visit: restaurants, bars, museums and every boat leave from the same harbour. The catch is the steps. Many guesthouses sit up stepped lanes, and a room described as "close to the port" can still mean a climb with luggage; porters with mules wait at the quay. Bratsera, in a converted 19th-century sponge factory, is one of the few hotels that spares you most of the climb. Kamini, a short walk west along the coastal path, is a small fishing harbour with a couple of tavernas and a slower pace. Vlychos, further on, suits people who want to swim before breakfast; Bellevalia Hydra sits at Plakes, well away from the evening bustle. Mandraki, east of town, is quiet and practical only if you don't mind the walk or a boat ride back.

ΓWhat to do between swims

Start at the Historical Archive – Museum of Hydra on the harbour, which puts the ships, the captains and the War of Independence into context. Above the western side of the harbour, the ochre Lazaros Kountouriotis Mansion shows how the shipowning families actually lived. In summer the DESTE Foundation Slaughterhouse hosts a single-artist show in a tiny former abattoir by the sea, often the most talked-about room on the island. The walk up to the Prophet Elias Monastery is steep and shadeless; start early, carry water, and dress for a working convent. The sunset belongs to the cannons west of the harbour, where Sunset Restaurant takes the best tables.

ΔBeaches: rocks, pebbles and water taxis

Hydra has no long sandy beaches, and pretending otherwise leads to disappointment. The locals swim off rocks: Hydronetta, a few minutes west of the port, is a set of ladders and platforms into deep, clear water. Vlychos – Plakes is a pebble beach reached along the coastal path or by boat. On the island's western tip, Bisti and neighbouring Agios Nikolaos have pine shade and sunbeds, and are reached by water taxi or, in summer, by the beach boats from the harbour. Limnioniza, on the south coast, is boat-only and the quietest of the lot. Water taxis add up quickly for a couple; share one, or use the beach boats when they run.

ΕEating on Hydra

The harbour front charges for the view. Step one lane back and prices, and often the cooking, improve. Téchnē, on the coastal path towards Kamini, is the island's smart evening address; Taverna Marina at Vlychos is the one to walk to for a long lunch by the water. Before you leave, buy a box of amygdalota, the island's almond sweets.

ΣΤGetting there

There is no airport; fly into Athens. Fast boats from Piraeus typically take between 1h05 and 2 hours, with adult fares from around €28 (prices checked September 2026). Friday evening and Sunday evening sailings fill up with weekenders, so book ahead in summer, and check the gate on your ticket. Compare sailings on our ferries page. Drivers can leave the car on the Peloponnese side and cross by small boat from Metochi; check the schedule before relying on it. Once on the island, see getting around: your feet will do most of the work.

ΖWhen to go

The Athens coast is a fair climate proxy. July and August average highs around 32°C, which on stepped lanes at midday is punishing. May, June and September into early October are the sweet spot: the sea is around 25°C in September and around 22°C in June and again in October. Many hotels and restaurants close or thin out between November and March, so check before booking an off-season trip. Current conditions are on our weather page.

ΗWho it's for, and who should skip it

Hydra suits walkers, couples, art lovers and anyone who wants a Greek island without traffic noise. It rewards two or three nights far more than a day trip. Skip it if you want a sandy beach within reach of your sunbed, if stairs are a problem, or if you are travelling on a tight budget: very little here is cheap, and the island knows exactly what it is worth.