Spetses

ΑOld money, pine trees and no traffic

Spetses is the southernmost of the Saronic islands, a green, rounded island just off the Peloponnese coast. Its fortune, like Hydra’s, came from shipping, and the town is lined with captains’ mansions, pebble-mosaic courtyards and walled gardens. Athenian families have summered here for generations, and it shows: the mood is polished but relaxed, children cycle unsupervised, and the evening walk from the main harbour to the old one is a social event. Private cars are restricted, so the island moves on mopeds, bicycles, horse-drawn carriages and water taxis. It is quieter than a car-free idyll might suggest, since the mopeds are everywhere, but it is still a far calmer place than most island towns.

ΒWhere to base yourself

Dapia, the main harbour, is the heart of town, with the ferry quay, cafés and the grand Poseidonion, opened in 1914 by the tobacco magnate Sotirios Anargyros and still the island’s landmark hotel. Kounoupitsa, a short walk west, is flatter, residential and good for families. East of Dapia, the Old Harbour (Palio Limani) is where yachts tie up, boatyards still work on wooden caiques, and the best evening tables are. Hotels up the hillside, such as Orloff Resort, trade a climb for quiet. Almost everything worth staying near is on the north-east side of the island.

ΓWhat to see

The Bouboulina Museum, in the family mansion of Laskarina Bouboulina, the island’s heroine of the 1821 War of Independence, is the essential visit; it is shown by guided tour, so check the times on arrival. The Museum of Spetses, in another captain’s mansion above Dapia, covers the island’s naval history. Walk on to the Old Harbour and the monastery church of Agios Nikolaos, with its pebble-mosaic courtyard, then continue to the lighthouse and the chapel of Panagia Armata.

West of town stands the Anargyrios and Korgialenios School, where the novelist John Fowles taught and which inspired his book The Magus. The island’s biggest event is the Armata, a re-enactment of the 1822 naval battle ending with a replica flagship set alight in the bay; it is usually held in September, so check the date before planning around it.

ΔBeaches around the coast road

A road circles the island, and the best beaches are on the far side from town. Agii Anargiri, in the south-west, is the classic: a sandy, sheltered bay with sunbeds, water sports and, at its edge, the sea cave of Bekiri, which you can swim into. Next door, pine-backed Agia Paraskevi is quieter and prettier. Closer to town, Agios Mamas is the convenient town beach, fine for a quick swim but nothing more. Beach boats and water taxis from Dapia save you the moped ride in summer.

ΕFood

The island’s own dish is fish à la Spetsiota, baked with tomato and breadcrumbs, and you will find it on most taverna menus. Patralis, on the waterfront at Kounoupitsa, is the most-reviewed table on the island and an institution for seafood. At the Old Harbour, Mourayo is a favourite for a long evening by the boats. Prices are Athenian rather than provincial; book ahead on summer weekends.

ΣΤGetting there and around

There is no airport; fly into Athens. Fast boats from Piraeus typically take between 1h30 and 4 hours, depending on stops, with adult fares from roughly €38. If you are driving, you cannot bring a private car onto the island: leave it at Kosta on the Peloponnese coast and cross by small ferry or water taxi. On the island, rent a moped or bicycle, take the local bus or a carriage, or simply walk. See ferries and getting around.

ΖWhen to go

The Athens coast is a reasonable climate proxy: highs around 32°C in July and August and 28°C in September, with the sea around 25°C in late summer. June and September are the best months; August is busy and expensive, and weekends all summer fill with Athenians. Many hotels and restaurants close or thin out from November to March. See weather.

ΗWho it’s for, and who should skip it

Spetses suits families, couples, cyclists and anyone who likes a handsome, sociable town with swimming a short ride away. It pairs well with Hydra for a Saronic week. Skip it if you want wild landscapes, cheap holidays, or a quiet August; and if stairs and steep lanes are your worry, note that Spetses is kinder than Hydra, but not flat.